Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester is a lab-engineered synthetic peptide that combines acetic acid and cetyl alcohol with dipeptide-1, a peptide composed of amino acids arginine and tyrosine. Dipeptide-1 is found naturally in the body and plays a role in maintaining skin’s elasticity. Research has shown that topical application of this peptide protects collagen-making cells known as fibroblasts from the visible impact of glycation, a process in which destructive sugar molecules progressively weaken skin’s supportive elements. This ingredient has also been shown to thwart irritation on skin’s surface that would otherwise result in stinging or burning sensations. As such, it’s a very good option to pair with bio-active ingredients that can be more sensitising for some people. Recommended usage levels of this peptide range from 3–4%; however, since the peptide portion itself is part of a blend, the actual amount of peptide needed to gain benefit is much lower, in the parts per million level. It is considered safe as used in cosmetics.

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl ester (Lipo-dipeptide Tyr-Arg, with the sequence N-Acetyl-Tyrosyl-Arginyl-Hexadecyl Ester or NATAH) is an active lipopeptide developed by Sederma known under the trade name Idealift™.
This lipopeptide exhibits good stimulating results on elastin production. As a result, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl ester fights against cutaneous sagging and decreases the visible effects of gravity on the skin, which accentuates flaccid jowls due to aging or daily aggressions.
The efficacy of Lipo-dipeptide Tyr-Arg was demonstrated in vitro by measuring elastin synthesis and elastin fiber architecture. The quantity of elastin/tropoelastin settled in the extracellular matrix after release from the fibroblasts increased by more than 94%.
Idealift™ has also been shown to intervene in the various stages of elastic tissue formation and maturation. Elastic tissue consists of elastin and different proteins acting as a guide and enabling anchoring and stabilization; enzymes are also necessary for development (Fibrillin-1, fibulin-5, and lysyl oxidase in particular).
Tests were carried out on 26 female volunteers aged 54 to 75 with sagging skin. Women applied a cream containing 4% Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl ester twice a day for two months.
The effects of this new active ingredient were proven after just one month. They were confirmed using various evaluation techniques (Aeroflexmeter®, a new device developed and patented by Sederma, FOITS, and self-evaluation). As a result, the visible effects of gravity decreased, cutaneous sagging was fought, and for 80% of panelists, their skin was firmer.
This is an ideal ingredient for formulas against skin sagging that also improve resistance to gravity and firmness, helping women look younger.